Fridg Compressor Want Start

I Have Hunter 380 2001 My Fridge Is A Polar Matewater Cooled

It Was Working Fine The Then Next Day Compressor Not Turning On. Fan Works And Getting Plenty Of Water Flow

The Code On The Unit Is Blinking 3 Times. Trouble Shooting Guide Say If Blinking 3 Times Compressor Overload (rotor Is Blocked Or Ref Pressure Is To High)

The Only Thing That Was Different Was I Did Leave The Power Off For 3 Days. When I Realized It I Checked And My Batteries Had Lost Some Amps But The Everthing Was Fine. I Turned On The Panel All Batteries Are Charged Completly But Compressor Attemps To Start And The Relay Stops It From Starting.

Any Help Befor I Call A Tech

Since we cruise year around I normally keep the reefers on 24/7. A few years ago upon arriving I noticed that the refrigerator kept start cycling, but would not actually run. I contacted WAECO Adlher Barber the maker for customer support and after talking to them about the symptoms they concluded it was a bad Control Module. It was easy to replace, basically plug and play, after which the unit started up and has been trouble free ever since.

Different model than yours, but perhaps it will help. Please let us know what you find out.

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[Rick I]

I would check the negative ground. I had the same problem once and it was the ground.

[DeniseO30]

if it's water cooled like you said. the most important thing to check is the water flow to the condensor and if the pump is also working. (ref pressure to high)

"The Code On The Unit Is Blinking 3 Times. Trouble Shooting Guide Say If Blinking 3 Times Compressor Overload (rotor Is Blocked Or Ref Pressure Is To High)" tells me you have a problem (i'm in the hvac biz) Does the compressor have a relay and capacitor? you may need a hard start kit or new relay and cap. either way you need a tech. don't be surprised if the comp is bad. good luck

[Benny]

Check the charge and condition of your batteries individually. A weak or damaged battery may give the impression of being fully charged causing the battery charger to scale down or shut off and if connected may draw the charge of the other. A stable power supply is necessary for these units to operate properly as a drop in voltage will trigger the control module to shut power to the compressor as a protection measure. A drop in voltage can also come as a result of a loose or corroded connection between batteries and the unit. As has been mentioned check ground connections. Beyond this I would recommend to call a technician as it will save you agravation and time. Good luck.

FWIW, I prefer to dig into a system problem, find the solution and fix it myself. Most system makers seem more than willing to help resolve an operating failure and can provide guidance towards a successful resolution. Yes, you can turn the problem over to a technician, but what happens when you need to fix a system and there is no technician nearby. Best way I know to learn, understand and repair your boat's systems, IMHO. At least give it the old college try.

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[sailingdog]

One other problem may be that the if the compressor wasn't shut down properly, it may have liquid refrigerant in it...which would cause it to be "overloaded".

[DeniseO30]

DIY is fine when you can or have the actual knowledge. Refridge and ac us gases that are highly regulated. Even though the amounts of refrigerant in boat systems is quite small Be careful someone isn't "watching over your shoulder" epa fines for venting refrigerant are very high.